Henri Boillot Batard Montrachet 2012

(these domain vines were picked with 13.2% potential alcohol): Deeply pitched aromas and flavors of ripe peach, almond and clove. Superrich and tactile, if a bit less floral and more phenolic today than the young Bienvenues. Finishes very long and dry, with a hint of tannins but surprisingly detailed flavors of lemon, smoke and almond. Boillot owns parcels of Batard on both the Chassagne and Puligny sides, with the same vine age. STEPHEN TANZER

I tasted the 2012 Bâtard-Montrachet from two different barrels, Seguin Moreau and François Frères. The Seguin Moreau barrels brings out the more floral, perfumed side of the wine, while the François Frères gives volume and texture. What emerges is a gorgeous, beautifully layered wine that is not quite as opulent today as the Bienvenues, but striking all the same. What stands out is the wine's length and persistence. ANTONIO GALLONI