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This is a highly anticipated release getting us ever closer to wines from the Place Of Changing Winds. POCW is the deeply-invested (organic, close-planted) vineyard of Rob Walters (author, journalist, importer, distributor) supported with knowledge and help by luminaries of international wine, including local hero Michael Dhillon (Bindi – he found the site for Walters) and others of significance like Olivier Lamy, the immensely important viticulturist and inspiration touchstone. Minutiae in viticulture has been emphatically described. Relative patience too. There have been wines under this label that have absorbed the Graillot Australia project, but I believe this is an independent wine, and an excursion towards releases that are entirely reflective of the single site. Here ya go. Packaging is excellent.
A beauty. Silken texture that turns to succulence and a firm pucker. Wildly aromatic with a chorus of brambles, autumnal dried leaves, cherry, game meat, light eucalyptus and white pepper. It sings in the palate, that texture is just superb and there’s immense concentration and detail in the layers of flavour despite the wine maintaining a relative light weight. It carries long and beautifully, fine through its lightly fanning and puckering finish. I wanted to go back to this wine a lot. It has charm and interest, architecture and drinkability in synch. L’chaim! 95pts MIKE BENNIE, www.winefront.com.au
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